How to Install LVP Flooring

LVP is the most beginner-friendly hard flooring on the market - 100% waterproof, click-lock installation with no glue or nails, and it goes over most existing floors. Professional installation runs $1.50-$3.00 per sq ft in labor - this guide shows you how to do it yourself in a weekend.

Step 1: Calculate Materials

Measure your room and use the Flooring Calculator to get total square footage plus waste allowance (10% for straight lay, 15% for diagonal). LVP is sold by the box - divide your total by the coverage per box. Buy all boxes from the same production run (same lot number) to ensure color consistency.

Step 2: Acclimate the Flooring

Bring all boxes into the installation room and leave flat for 48-72 hours at room temperature (65-85F). LVP is more dimensionally stable than hardwood but still expands and contracts slightly. Skipping acclimation is the most common cause of gapping and buckling after installation.

Step 3: Prepare the Subfloor

The subfloor must be clean, flat, and dry. Check for high and low spots - LVP tolerates no more than 3/16 inch variation over 10 feet. Fill low spots with floor leveling compound; sand or grind down high spots. LVP can go over concrete, tile, hardwood, and laminate - but never over carpet.

Step 4: Plan the Layout

Run planks parallel to the longest wall or the main light source. Measure the room width and divide by plank width - if the last row would be less than 2 inches wide, trim the first row to split the difference. Dry-lay the first two rows without locking to check the layout and stagger joints by at least 6 inches.

Step 5: Install Underlayment

If your LVP doesn't have attached underlayment, roll out thin foam underlayment perpendicular to the plank direction. Tape seams. Use a vapor barrier underlayment over concrete in below-grade spaces. Never use thick padding under LVP - it flexes the joints and causes premature failure.

Step 6: Install the First Row

Place spacers (1/4 inch) against all walls to maintain the expansion gap. Install the first plank in the corner with the groove side facing the wall. Connect planks end-to-end by angling the short end down and pressing until it clicks. Keep the row tight to the spacers.

Step 7: Install Remaining Rows

Start each new row with the offcut from the previous row (minimum 6-inch piece) to stagger the joints. Angle the long side of the new plank into the previous row's groove and press down until it clicks. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet for planks that don't click fully. Check alignment every few rows.

Step 8: Cut Around Obstacles and Finish

Use a utility knife scored against a straight edge for most cuts. For curved cuts around door casings and pipes, use a jigsaw. Undercut door casings so the LVP slides underneath. Remove all spacers, install transition strips at doorways, and reinstall baseboards to cover the expansion gap.

Pro Tips

• Open multiple boxes at once and mix planks from different boxes to randomize color variation.
• Never install LVP in rooms where temperature drops below 50F.
• Leave the 1/4 inch expansion gap at every wall, column, and fixed object.
• Use felt pads under furniture legs.